As much as I hate to say good-bye to the summer, I have to admit that autumn always seduces me with cozy evenings in, cool, crisp fall walks, warming comfort food, and bigger, bolder wines. And as flavours on the plate as well as in the glass get heartier, we often are asked by clients about how to choose wines to pair with some of the more unusual ingredients available to us, including game meats and fowl.
So just in time for the season, I’m happy to share with you an article that was recently published in Alberta Outdoorsmen Magazine. I hope it contains some tips and ideas that you can use in your kitchen this autumn.
Last year I was approached to participate in a fundraiser for a charity called Grapes for Humanity and I’m excited to announce that the end result is ready and waiting for you!
“Women & Wine” is a collection of beautiful, sexy photography by acclaimed photographer Steven Elphick, who teamed up with a dozen young ladies representing the future of the Ontario wine industry to create each piece. A limited edition 2010 calendar featuring the photos has now been released, with 100% of the proceeds going to the Grapes for Humanity Foundation.
If you live in Toronto or Ottawa, you may have already caught a glimpse of this collection, as the prints have been on tour and displayed in locations including Cava Restaurant in Toronto and Restaurant 18 in Ottawa. Calendars are now on sale and will shortly be available for purchase here at www.groovygrapes.com. The calendars cost $29.95 each (plus shipping) and as I mentioned already, 100% of the proceeds go to the charity.
These stunning black and white calendars are the perfect holiday gift for the wine-lover on your list too, for those of you who are organized enough to be starting your Christmas shopping! Get yours today to support this worthy cause and see if you can figure out who’s who in each month. Ottawa’s very own Caroline Gosselin (owner of Restaurant 18) and me, Stacey Metulynsky of Groovy Grapes, are featured in the calendar, among many other lovely ladies from the Toronto and Niagara regions. For more information, contact us at contact@groovygrapes.com.
Too busy to cook? The Red Apron is a brilliant business that offers a fresh meal service for delivery or pick-up, plus a retail store well stocked with a selection of fresh and frozen prepared meals, fresh bread, local preserves and sweet treats. And here’s the big bonus - they cook all of their meals from ’scratch’! Their philosophy is to give clients an opportunity to rediscover the taste of good food that takes time to prepare, and to get people ‘back to the table’ around fresh, wholesome meals made with local and seasonal ingredients. The Red Apron cooks with local, hormone and antibiotic free meat, organic dried goods (beans, pasta, rice, flour, sugar), and fresh produce from local growers. You can check them out at www.redapron.ca, or at their retail shop at 571 Gladstone Avenue.
Jennifer and Jo-Ann, the lovely ladies at the Red Apron, have shared with us a simple seasonal recipe for Ratatouille Strudel. Here’s the recipe, and read on below for my wine picks!
Ratatouille Strudel
This is a recipe we developed to make use of all those beautiful local vegetables which are at their peak in September. We have often modified this recipe by adding either White or Black Beans, and substituting Aged Cheddar or diced Brie for the Mozzarella. This Strudel makes a wonderful Vegetarian Main Course, or can be an elegant appetizer to start off a fall feast!
2 medium tomatoes diced
2 large garlic cloves, diced
½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium eggplant, cut into cubes
1 large onion medium diced
1 bell peppers (green, red, or yellow), cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 medium zucchini quartered lengthwise and cut crosswise into 3/4-inch-thick pieces
2 cups of shredded mozzarella
1 or 2 puff pastry sheets thawed (depending on size – ours are 10×15)
1 egg (for egg wash)
Salt and Pepper to taste
1. Cook onions in 1 tablespoon oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened. Transfer onions to a large colander which is placed over a large bowl. Add 1 tablespoon oil to skillet and cook bell peppers until softened. Transfer the peppers to the colander with the onions. Continue this process with the eggplant and the zucchini. Finish with the tomatoes and transfer to the colander. Let the vegetables drain while they cool.
2. When the vegetables are cool, transfer to a large bowl and add salt and pepper to taste, and mix in the mozzarella. Lay out your puff pastry sheet on a sheet of parchment directly on a baking sheet with the long side facing you. Mound the ratatouille mixture down the middle of the sheet from one end to the other, leaving enough room for the puff pastry to close with a 1 inch overlap. Fold one edge of the puff pastry up and over the mound, and egg wash the other edge. Roll the strudel over so that the puff pastry seam is on the bottom and the edges overlap one inch. If you have enough filling, make a second strudel.
3. Brush the top of the strudel with the remaining egg wash. Bake in a pre-heated 375 degree oven for 25-35 minutes, until the puff pastry is golden brown. Let stand for 5-10 minutes before cutting and serve immediately
Serves 4-6 people as a main course or 8-12 people as a side dish or appetizer.
Stacey’s wine picks … this recipe makes the most of the bounty of the harvest, and with such gorgeous local produce to cook with, it’s only natural to pair a local wine with this dish. The provençal-inspired combination of vegetables screams rosé, but if you’re ready to move on to more autumnal flavours, I’ve recommended a red as well.
If you haven’t already tried Niagara Food Specialties’ melt-in-your-mouth prosciutto, hand-made right here in Ontario, then you have to put it at the top of your must-taste list! Mario Pingue is chef and proprietor of Niagara Food Specialties, which makes artisan charcuterie products in Niagara. They’re available at a number of stores and restaurants across the province, and we’re thrilled to have him as our special guest for La Vendemmia. On Thursday, September 17th, join Chef Mario as he prepares a Roman-inspired menu at Divino Wine Studio, using many of his products throughout the menu. For more details and to make reservations, click here. Not available September 17th? No worries - check out Mario one day earlier on September 16th at the urban element, where he’ll be cooking up a storm for you to enjoy. Click here for details.
Coming up September 14-20, 2009 is La Vendemmia, a week’s worth of wine and food programming all taking place in Ottawa’s Little Italy in celebration of the harvest. With more than 15 events to choose from, plus special feature menus and plenty more going on, there’s no reason to not spend your September on Preston Street. Our Corso Italia is home to one of the most vibrant neighbourhoods in the region, bursting with top-end restaurants, cozy pubs, cool lounges, traditional trattorias, and family-owned and operated businesses. Yes, the street is under construction, but there’s plenty of parking and everyone’s still open for business, eager to celebrate La Vendemmia with you! Check out the exciting line-up of events and book your tickets now at www.prestonstreet.com/lavendemmia - there really is something for everyone this year! Plus to make your visit to Corso Italia even easier, we’re offering an Insider’s Guide to Preston Street, featuring tips on the best places to go, recipes from some of our favourite restaurants on the street, and highlights of the La Vendemmia festival. Click here to download yours today! And don’t forget to sign up your team for the Charity Grape Stomp Relay in support of the Ottawa Regional Cancer Foundation.
Stacey’s picks: Cono Sur Viognier ($9.95, LCBO 64287, Chile)
A medium to full bodied white with juicy, ripe tropical fruit flavours and a mouth-filling texture. Pair it up with grilled scallops topped with Niagara peach salsa.
Freixenet Brut de Noirs Cava Brut ($12.95, LCBO 352369, Spain)
A rosé bubbly that’s crisp, refreshing and food friendly. Perfect for welcoming guests, or pair it up with chorizo sausage or other simple tapas and charcuterie.
Candidato Oro ($7.95, LCBO 523811, Spain) A blend of Tempranillo and Grenache creates an easy-drinking, spicy-fruity red wine that’s medium in body and a great match for grilled burgers, sausages, or spiced chicken or pork.
Rod’s picks: Marques de Riscal Rueda Blanco ($12.35, LCBO 36822, Spain)
Made from Verdejo grapes, this white is fresh but full of ripe fruit flavour - a great choice for summertime. Pair it with seafood paella, light tapas, or grilled chicken with lemon and herbs.
Remy Pannier Rosé d’Anjou ($11.95, LCBO 12641, France)
Intense strawberry flavour, refreshing acidity, and light body combine in this rosé from the Loire Valley in France that is delicious on its own as well as with any manner of grilled fare - Rod even enjoys it with steak!
Montalto Nero d’Avola/Cabernet Sauvignon ($9.95, LCBO 621151, Sicily)
Big body, big flavour, and perfect for your grilled red meats this summer. Nero d’Avola is a grape native to Sicily that creates spicy, full-bodied reds that are often priced to provide incredible value.
As Canadians, I think we all feel the same way when it comes to our fleeting summers - take advantage of the nice weather while we can! So in my family, that means outdoor cooking whenever possible. At Groovy Headquarters, we love our barbeque for grilling, smoking, slow-cooking, and we cook anything we can on it, from fresh produce to seafood to meat. The question is though, what are the best wines for barbeque? I know the answer!
There are a few important things to consider.
First, I’ve said this before and I’ll say it again - seasonings, sauces, and cooking method are more important than the protein itself. Because cooking on the bbq adds its own smoky flavour to food, I find that most seasonings and sauces used are bolder and spicier to stand up to the cooking method so that’s really important to consider when choosing your wines. Delicate, light-bodied wines are generally not what you’re looking for. But at the same time, bbq usually also means that it’s hot outside, so you want something refreshing to the palate as well. In most cases, the answer is juicy, fruity wines that are medium to full in body, whether they’re white, red, or rosé.
In the white category - and for these I’m thinking grilled or smoked seafood and fish - some of my go-to choices are Viognier, Grüner Veltliner from Austria, Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blends, and Spanish Albariño. When it comes to reds, I adore Grenache (and Grenache-based blends), Spanish reds, California Zinfandel, and fruit-forward New World style Pinot Noir. Notice a trend? These are all wines that are medium to full in body, are fruit-forward, have some soft but well-balanced acidity, and for the reds, have medium to low tannins, meaning that they are smooth in the mouth. All these characteristics are important for pairing foods with lots of spice, and with sauces that are sweet, tangy, and/or spicy. These fruity, juicy wines are also a great contrast to the smoky, charred flavour of bbq food.
Of course, I’d be amiss if I neglected to sing the virtues of rosé when it comes to bbq. If you read our newsletter on a regular basis or have attended our tastings, you already know that we try to convert all you non-rosé-drinkers any chance we get, and summer is the perfect time to try once again. If you think that all rosés are made in the same style as White Zinfandel, think again! Most pink wines on the market are dry, crisp, refreshing, and filled with berry fruit flavour - the absolute perfect wine pairing for grilled or smoked food. Like red wine in white wine’s clothing, rosé offers the aromas and flavours of a red wine, in a lighter, more refreshing format that is served chilled to make it even more friendly for al fresco dining. Trust me, if you haven’t tried a rosé yet with your summertime cooking, please do, your taste buds will thank you!
One more piece of advice for you - tasting is better than reading! Join us on July 14th at the Urban Element for a tasting of 8 different bbq-friendly wines, along with some appropriate fare to match. Wine has gone casual for the summer season at the Urban Element, and that means that this tasting will be hosted in a relaxed, cocktail-style format, with food stations set up for grazing, and an Urban Element chef out at the bbq with tips for grilling. Special summertime pricing is also in effect … we hope to see you there!
A few weeks back, we headed to Prince Edward County with some friends for a week-end of relaxation, good eats, and wine country. If you haven’t been, the County is an easy drive 2 and a half hours down the road, and really is a perfect getaway destination. It is an absolutely beautiful region, and our trip luckily happened to fall in the height of lilac season, so the air was fresh, perfumed, and intoxicating. After a quick stop in Picton for some of my favourite County culinary delights (Buddha Dog and butter buns from the Pastry House - 125 Main Street, Picton) we took a leisurely 20-minute drive to what turned out to be the highlight of our trip - Fifth Town Artisan Cheese. Our knowledgable host Andrew Laliberté took our group on a guided tour of the grounds and the platinum LEED-certified facility, including the cheese cave, during which we learned all about how their artisan cheese is made. We were all astounded by the focus on environmental and social sustainability, and how their stringent requirements for quality ingredients from healthy, well-treated animals all contribute to the incredible final product.
After our tour, we sat down with Andrew to taste some local wines with a selection of Fifth Town cheeses. We were blown away by how delicious the cheeses were and our host’s sound knowledge in both cheese and wine meant that the wine pairings he selected were the perfect complement. My favourites? Lost Lake and Cape Vessey (made from goat and sheep milk, as are all of their products). Lucky for you, Fifth Town cheeses are available in retail outlets throughout Ontario so if you don’t have the chance to visit the County (although you really should make the time) you can still enjoy these fabulous products. Here in Ottawa, you can find Fifth Town cheeses at The Piggy Market (400 Winston Ave in Westboro), La Bottega (Byward Market), Nicastro locations around the city, and Jacobson’s (in New Edinburgh). Take a peek at our tasting with Andrew.
As a summer of outdoor entertaining, lounging in the backyard, and fresh, seasonal produce looms ahead, I just can’t help it - my mental image of this season features a frosty-cold bottle of rosé resting in an ice bucket, ready to be enjoyed. For those of you who know me, you already know that I’m a die-hard rosé-lover and I try to convert anyone who isn’t. To me, rosé is simply the quintessential summertime wine. It has the berry-ripeness of red wine with the cool, refreshing lightness of a white wine, and for some reason, rows of rosy-hued bottles in my wine fridge just screams “summertime” to me and puts a big ol’ smile on my face.
Next week at The Urban Element, we are celebrating rosé with a special wine-paired dinner that features a variety of rosés from various regions around Ontario. It’s going to be a fabulous summertime feast, featuring dishes to inspire your cooking in the coming months and wines that will quench your thirst and intrigue your palate. Read on for complete event information including menu and wine pairings.
Think Pink! Rosé Dinner Featuring Chef Candice Butler and Groovy Grapes Sommelier Ilike Csaba
Date: Wednesday June 10, 2009
Time: 6:00 p.m.
Location: The Urban Element, 424 Parkdale Avenue
Cost: $125pp Reservations: call the Urban Element at 613-722-0885 or email bookings@theurbanelement.ca
It’s time to think pink and appreciate Spring & Summer with a toast to rosé! Join Groovy Grapes sommelier Ilike Csaba to sample and learn about the various styles of rosé and the regions in Ontario that specialize in this popular warm-weather wine. We’ll take you on a gastronomical journey as we explore the incredible food-friendliness of pink wines! This 5-course meal has been created specifically by the Urban Element’s Chef Candice Butler to compliment an impressive selection of VQA rosé wines; bubbly, light, full and sweet. If you’re not already a fully converted rosé-lover, you will be by the end of this experience!
Welcome
Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Rosé Brut (VQA Niagara Peninsula)
Chilled Gazpacho with a Cilantro-Lime Yoghurt
Domaine Perrault Rosé (Navan, Ontario)
Beet Tomato Salad with Feta Cheese, Toasted Walnuts and a Balsamic Vinaigrette
Huff Estates South Bay Rosé (VQA Prince Edward County)
Leg of Lamb atop a Spring Herb Risotto
Southbrook Biodynamic Cabernet Rosé (VQA Niagara Peninsula)
Wild Sockeye Salmon, Warm French Potato Salad, Cucumber Slaw with a Beet & Dill Vinaigrette
Megalomaniac Pink Slip Pinot Noir Rosé 2006 (VQA Niagara Peninsula)
Rhubarb Crumble with a Candied Ginger Ice-Cream and a Caramelized Apple Compote
Cave Spring Select Late Harvest Cabernet Franc (VQA Niagara Peninsula)
Reservations: call the Urban Element at 613-722-0885 or email bookings@theurbanelement.ca
Here’s an excerpt from my book This Food That Wine that talks about what rosé is and why I love
it so much.
Rosé is my absolute favourite summertime, patio-sipping wine. It’s like red wine in white wine’s clothing, with the berry and spice flavours of red wine but drunk chilled down like white wine. It’s crisp, refreshing, fruity, and easy-drinking - perfect for picnics, barbeque, and just about all summertime foods. Not to say that you can’t drink it in the winter too – I certainly do! Rosé is food friendly because of all the things it isn’t – it’s not as heavy as reds, and it’s not as light as many whites – it’s a happy medium, delicious, and affordable to boot.
Rosés, however, tend to be overlooked as a respectable wine style. A lot of people automatically think of the sweet and simple White Zinfandel (although a little White Zin paired with spicy food can be amazing) but the rosés I’m talking about are the dry yet fruity, refreshing yet interesting pink wines made around the world, especially those of Mediterranean regions like southern France and Spain. Canada and Italy make some fine rosé as well.
There are two ways that wine becomes pink. First, you can make a white wine and add a splash of red. Or you can make it only from red grapes. Let me explain … red grapes are actually just red on the outside – the flesh and juice inside is white. When red wine is made, the grapes are crushed and the skins left in with the juice, usually at least for a couple of weeks. This is called maceration. During this time, the skins add colour, flavour, and texture to the wine. So to make rosé, the skins are left in with the juice for only a short period of time to extract just a bit of colour and flavour, leaving the wine a rosy pink hue with ripe berry flavours.
My favourite regions for rosé are Spain and the southern part of the Rhône Valley in France. Spanish rosé is called Rosado, and the French name theirs after the region in which it’s made (including Tavel and Côtes-du-Rhône). Both countries use Grenache as the main grape in the blend, also throwing in some Syrah and Cinsault (in France) or Tempranillo (in Spain). The wines are quite full in body with ripe strawberry and raspberry flavours, and crisp, refreshing acidity. In Canada, you often see grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, or Gamay used in their rosés. They are still fruity, but slightly lighter and tarter in style then the Mediterranean versions. Italy’s rosés (sometimes called “rosato”) are made from a wide range of grapes, but my favourite style is “Chiaretto” which is made in the Bardolino region of Italy using the same three grapes used to make the well-known Valpolicella (Molinara, Corvina, and Rondinella). Chiaretto di Bardolino has a vivid salmon colour, bright berry fruit flavours, and a characteristic bitter tang on the finish.
Coming up next week (on May 12th) is our first ever Wellington West Walkabout Feast and we can’t wait! In case you’re not familiar, walkabout feasts are our favourite and definitely the most fun way to dine around. Over the past 5 years or so, we’ve hosted this type of dinner in several regions around town, namely Preston Street and the Byward Market. Participants all meet up at a specified location, have a glass of bubbly and some snacks, then head out on to the street, with a Groovy Grapes Sommelier as their guide, to eat each course of their meal at a different restaurant. Each dining stop also includes a wine pairing. Then the entire group meets up for dessert to relax and debate which food and wine pairing was the favourite. Sounds like fun, right?
Well, the event itself is only part of the fun … luckily for me, I get to coordinate the whole thing and part of that of course is to taste the food and choose the wine pairings. Sean and I recently enjoyed a fantastic evening at Absinthe, which is taking part as one of our dining stops on the Wellington Walkabout. Chef Patrick Garland has created a mouth-watering dish for the Feast and we got to taste test and make sure it really was as delicious as he promised - and yes, it was! The dish is a spice-rubbed and grilled quail, perched atop fresh, tender zucchini paparadelle, and surrounded by a drizzle of pear and foie gras emulsion. Sounds fancy and looks fancy, but it was amazing how all the flavours combined reminded us of classic summertime bbq flavours - sweet, spicy, smoky. We sampled some other delicious dishes from Absinthe’s regular menu that night too, but if you want to taste the quail, you’ll have to join us on the Feast - he created it especially for us!
Also on the Feast menu is Tuna 3 Ways at Allium and Raviloi of Rabbit Rillettes at the Wellington Gastropub. Our welcome reception is taking place at Thyme & Again, and dessert is hosted by The Urban Element. Interested in joining us? We have a few spots left and registration will wrap up by this week-end, so sign up today! You can read the entire menu and find out more details by clicking here.